Zeroing In – SawStop Zero Clearance Throat Plate & Inserts!


The day you discover a zero clearance insert for your table saw is a wonderful day.  That’s the day you quit having blowout on the back of your cuts. It’s also the day you no longer lose thin drops into the dreaded gap next to the blade.  It’s the day….eh, you get my point. Here in the Infinity Tool’s shop, we have a Saw Stop table saw that we love.  We also have our SawStop Zero Clearance Throat Plate with removable inserts that we really love (and only partially because we make them).

The  Infinity Tools SawStop Zero Clearance Insert is an absolute joy to use and will save you oodles of money over the life of your saw.  The SawStop OEM factory made inserts run you $40.00 a pop for every one you buy.  So every time you need to make a new zero clearance insert because you bought a new blade, or you need a dado blade, or just because the old one is getting ragged edges, you have to go drop $40.00 for a piece of coated phenolic.  Every time. Or you can buy one of our cast aluminum, precision CNC machined throat plates with removable inserts ($109.90) and simply replace the affordable replacement inserts (pack of 4 inserts for $13.90).  What?  I know, I know, we are a little crazy over here.  So, while upfront there is a little more cost, over the long haul, you are gonna save bunches.


But saving money isn’t the only reason you should consider our throat plate, it’s a worthwhile investment for the quality alone. Made of billet aluminum and guaranteed never to twist, bow, or warp (unlike wood and plastic), they are hard anodized to be non-conductive so they will not accidentally set off your SawStop brake. The inserts are melamine coated wood or mdf that slide into a dovetailed slot in the throat plate.  We include two different inserts with the original purchase.  There is a closed back insert that is meant to be used with the riving knife and an open backed insert meant to be used with the blade guard and overarm dust collector.  The 4 pack of replacement inserts includes 3 of the closed back and one open backed insert.  The throat plate inserts will take either single blade or dado blade cuts and has full clearance no matter what tilt angle you set it up for (yup, so affordable you can set up zero clearance angled cuts).  The melamine coated wood inserts offers friction-less sliding to really make the wood glide through the cut.

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The SawStop Z.C.I. (that’s how we are abbreviating it from now on) is super easy to install as well.  First, turn off and unplug your SawStop table saw, lower your blade, and pull out the riving knife or blade guard.  Next, you will pull out the SawStop Z.C.I. insert and place the throat plate in the table saw opening sliding the rear t-slots over the table saws rear leveling screws.  Using an allen key, level up the back two leveling screws that are a part of the table saw, then level up the front three leveling screws that are a part f the insert until the throat plate sits flush with your table.  Replace the melamine insert.  Now, to achieve a nice tight secure finish, you need to tighten the X and Y snugger screws on the side of the throat plate.  These snugger screws should allow you to create that perfect fit.  One of the things we recommend doing at this time is inserting the two 1/2″ screws (included) into the holes on the bottom of the insert to make sure there is no chance for the insert to pinch the blade over time.  Now you can slide your fence over the aluminum part of the throat plate and slowly raise the blade.  That’s it.

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So…the SawStop Z.C.I. is basically a better quality American made product that is going to save you money over the long haul.  Tough decision?  We don’t think so.

Please visit Infinity Tools website for more great products and information.

13 thoughts on “Zeroing In – SawStop Zero Clearance Throat Plate & Inserts!

  1. I’ve having a bit of a problem getting the riving knife working for bevel cuts… Got any hints??? The riving knife doesn’t seem to hit the re-existing cutoout

    • The way I do this is to raise the blade up through the zero clearance insert without the riving knife at my desired bevel. This allows the blade to cut out the area where the riving knife will come up through. The just re-insert your riving knife. Please make sure to partially cover the insert with the fence to add extra support and safety when raising the blade.

      If this still doesn’t get you going, please feel free to contact me at:
      877-USA-BITS (872-2487) or email at

  2. I’m a little confused after reading through some of the reviews here. I understand and see there is a “New” version of the inserts, but is there also a “New” throat plate? I didn’t see one so I’m assuming the new insert works with the “Old” (original) throatplate

    • Our part # 100-335 SawStop Plate works with our part # 100-337 SawStop Inserts. We’ve since taken the old style inserts off of the website so as not to cause any confusion. Thanks for your comment.

  3. Are the inserts available in solid blanks; without cutouts for the riving knife? I have not been able to find any pictures of your product showing a dado blade installed. A riving knife is not used on dado cuts, so I don’t know why a cutout would be necessary for the insert blank. I’d like to make a purchase, but need to clear up my solid insert availability question. Thanks.

    • Hi Matt, we do not offer a completely solid insert, we have both the open back for use with the blade guard and the closed back for use with the riving knife. I have found that either of the inserts work well for a dado blade and still remain usable for other blades if need be.

  4. The two front-side and the single front-center adjustment screws are a bit too short to push the throat plate level to the table. I had to put a couple layers of tape on the tabs that support that part of the insert to get it up high enough to level.

    Everything else is working as expected. This is a heavy duty replacement for the somewhat flimsy SawStop inserts.

    • Hi Rick, the 3 set screws in the plate are 1/2″ long and should have more than enough adjustment to level the plate without the need of tape or shims. The screws will be a bit snug as they should have a dab of thread locker on them to keep from losing adjustment once set. Also the anodizing takes up a bit of space in the threads and helps keep the screws snug. The proper sized Alan Key and turning the screw in and out a few turns should help loosen up the screws if needed and allow you to get you plate set perfectly.
      If you have any other problems or questions please feel free to give us a call or send us and e-mail to and we will be happy to help.

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